We arrive in the coastal village of Combe Martin in mid-afternoon, having picked up the hire car at Bristol airport and motored 90 miles over the rolling moors to the farthest reaches of North Devon. We navigate the twisty road into the village and catch our first glimpse of the sea.
"We are making our descent to Keflavík, where the local time is 6am," the captain announces. "The weather is overcast with light drizzle and the temperature is seven degrees Celsius." I shiver.
